Sam’s guidebook
Sightseeing
Universidade de Coimbra
Afonso Henriques and Sancho I, the first two kings of Portugal, are entombed in Santa Cruz church, which forms part of a monastery founded in 1131 by the canons of St. Augustine.
The Romanesque church is noted for its Manueline façade attributed to Diogo Boitac, who was also responsible for designing the chapterhouse. In fact, Santa Cruz's form has been chiseled out by some of the 16th century's finest sculptors, noted exponents like Nicolau Chanterène and Jean de Rouen, whose carvings ornament the church's Portal da Majestade.
The extravagantly traced royal tombs are also said to be Chanterène's handiwork. A sightseeing highlight is the serene Claustro do Silêncio, a double-tiered Manueline cloister featuring outstanding bas-reliefs in the southwest and northeast corners depicting Christ's Passion. An elaborate Renaissance fountain provides a centerpiece water feature.
57 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Igreja de Sao Tiago
Praça 8 de MaioAfonso Henriques and Sancho I, the first two kings of Portugal, are entombed in Santa Cruz church, which forms part of a monastery founded in 1131 by the canons of St. Augustine.
The Romanesque church is noted for its Manueline façade attributed to Diogo Boitac, who was also responsible for designing the chapterhouse. In fact, Santa Cruz's form has been chiseled out by some of the 16th century's finest sculptors, noted exponents like Nicolau Chanterène and Jean de Rouen, whose carvings ornament the church's Portal da Majestade.
The extravagantly traced royal tombs are also said to be Chanterène's handiwork. A sightseeing highlight is the serene Claustro do Silêncio, a double-tiered Manueline cloister featuring outstanding bas-reliefs in the southwest and northeast corners depicting Christ's Passion. An elaborate Renaissance fountain provides a centerpiece water feature.
The Old Cathedral is more akin to a fort such is its solid, almost oppressive appearance – all crenelated walls, narrow window-slits, and heavy-set veneer. In fact, this is one of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture in Portugal. Consecrated in 1184, King Sancho I was crowned here shortly afterwards when Coimbra was the nation's capital.
There are flourishes of extravagance relieving the somber effect of the exterior: the elegant Renaissance Porta Especiosa on the north side of the church is the most obvious example. Otherwise, tourists need to venture inside to appreciate more ostentatious design signatures such as the gilded, late Gothic high altar, which dates from 1498.
The fancy retable, which depicts the birth of Christ and the Assumption, is the work of Flemish master wood-carvers, Olivier de Gand and Jean d'Ypres. Incidentally, the square in front of the Old Cathedral is where João I was proclaimed king in 1385.
45 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Catedral de Sé Velha - Coimbra
Largo da Sé VelhaThe Old Cathedral is more akin to a fort such is its solid, almost oppressive appearance – all crenelated walls, narrow window-slits, and heavy-set veneer. In fact, this is one of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture in Portugal. Consecrated in 1184, King Sancho I was crowned here shortly afterwards when Coimbra was the nation's capital.
There are flourishes of extravagance relieving the somber effect of the exterior: the elegant Renaissance Porta Especiosa on the north side of the church is the most obvious example. Otherwise, tourists need to venture inside to appreciate more ostentatious design signatures such as the gilded, late Gothic high altar, which dates from 1498.
The fancy retable, which depicts the birth of Christ and the Assumption, is the work of Flemish master wood-carvers, Olivier de Gand and Jean d'Ypres. Incidentally, the square in front of the Old Cathedral is where João I was proclaimed king in 1385.
The fussy tapered façade of the New Cathedral contrasts starkly with its older, more conservative namesake. But it can hardly be described as contemporary; this church was founded by the Jesuits in 1598 and consecrated in 1640.
The exuberance of the exterior is equaled by the opulence of the interior – the high altar of gold filigree standing majestically in the 17th-century chancel is a standout feature, the pair of 18th-century organs positioned either side lending form and function. Actually, there is a bit of the old in the new: the octagonal font and the choir stalls once belonged in the Sé Velha.
10 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Sé Nova de Coimbra
Largo Feira dos EstudantesThe fussy tapered façade of the New Cathedral contrasts starkly with its older, more conservative namesake. But it can hardly be described as contemporary; this church was founded by the Jesuits in 1598 and consecrated in 1640.
The exuberance of the exterior is equaled by the opulence of the interior – the high altar of gold filigree standing majestically in the 17th-century chancel is a standout feature, the pair of 18th-century organs positioned either side lending form and function. Actually, there is a bit of the old in the new: the octagonal font and the choir stalls once belonged in the Sé Velha.
Reopened to the public after undergoing an extensive redesign by respected architect, Gonçalo Byrne, the Machado de Castro National Museum (MNMC) – named after the famous Portuguese sculptor, Joaquim Machado de Castro (1731-1822) – is one of Portugal's foremost cultural institutions. The new space boasts five floors, offering three times more exhibition space than in its previous incarnation.
The permanent displays of Roman archaeology, which include a remarkable cryptoporticus, 12th to 18th-century southern European sacred metalwork, 14th to 18th-century jewelry, and one of the finest collections of medieval statuary in Portugal that spans the 10th to the 18th century, are supplemented by rare and valuable paintings, drawings, textiles, furniture, and ceramics.
And if that isn't enough to take in, MNMC also possesses other important collections of early books and manuscripts, as well as glassware and artifacts from the Far East.
A worthwhile diversion away from this magical hoard is the double loggia in the courtyard that affords inspiring views over the town.
67 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Museo Nacional de Machado de Castro
Largo Doutor José RodriguesReopened to the public after undergoing an extensive redesign by respected architect, Gonçalo Byrne, the Machado de Castro National Museum (MNMC) – named after the famous Portuguese sculptor, Joaquim Machado de Castro (1731-1822) – is one of Portugal's foremost cultural institutions. The new space boasts five floors, offering three times more exhibition space than in its previous incarnation.
The permanent displays of Roman archaeology, which include a remarkable cryptoporticus, 12th to 18th-century southern European sacred metalwork, 14th to 18th-century jewelry, and one of the finest collections of medieval statuary in Portugal that spans the 10th to the 18th century, are supplemented by rare and valuable paintings, drawings, textiles, furniture, and ceramics.
And if that isn't enough to take in, MNMC also possesses other important collections of early books and manuscripts, as well as glassware and artifacts from the Far East.
A worthwhile diversion away from this magical hoard is the double loggia in the courtyard that affords inspiring views over the town.
The evocative, partly sunken ruins of the Convent of Santa Clara-a-Velha are all that remain of the 13th-century monastery. Built on the south bank of the River Mondego, the building served as a retreat for Santa Isabel, the widow of King Dinis.
Isabel oversaw the construction of a new church where she was interred after her death in 1336. However, the death knell was also sounding for Santa Clara itself after consistent flooding undermined the convent's foundations. The building was eventually abandoned in 1677, the sisters opting for a new building on higher ground. In 1696, the remains of Isabel herself were moved to this new address, the Convent of Santa Clara-a-Nova.
Velha's original Gothic church was eventually restored and shares the site with a modern interpretation center, where visitors can learn more about the fascinating history behind the convent and mull over archaeological finds unearthed from the silted ruins.
35 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Museo del Monasterio de Santa Clara a Velha
57 R. BaixoThe evocative, partly sunken ruins of the Convent of Santa Clara-a-Velha are all that remain of the 13th-century monastery. Built on the south bank of the River Mondego, the building served as a retreat for Santa Isabel, the widow of King Dinis.
Isabel oversaw the construction of a new church where she was interred after her death in 1336. However, the death knell was also sounding for Santa Clara itself after consistent flooding undermined the convent's foundations. The building was eventually abandoned in 1677, the sisters opting for a new building on higher ground. In 1696, the remains of Isabel herself were moved to this new address, the Convent of Santa Clara-a-Nova.
Velha's original Gothic church was eventually restored and shares the site with a modern interpretation center, where visitors can learn more about the fascinating history behind the convent and mull over archaeological finds unearthed from the silted ruins.
The Convent of Santa Clara-a-Nova, built between 1649 and 1677, replaced the earlier monastery, which succumbed to flood water and had to be abandoned. The new convent, built on drier land at Monte da Esperança, on the same side of the river, is now part of a military barracks, but it's still possible to visit the 17th-century silver shrine of Santa Isabel inside the Baroque church. The saint's original stone sarcophagus lies empty in the lower choir.
Worth noting are the sizable cloisters, laid out in 1733 by Carlos Mardel. Besides a small military museum, the rest of the rooms are off limits to the general public.
Address: Igreja da Rainha Santa Isabel-Alto de Santa Clara, Coimbra
32 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Nova
Calçada Santa IsabelThe Convent of Santa Clara-a-Nova, built between 1649 and 1677, replaced the earlier monastery, which succumbed to flood water and had to be abandoned. The new convent, built on drier land at Monte da Esperança, on the same side of the river, is now part of a military barracks, but it's still possible to visit the 17th-century silver shrine of Santa Isabel inside the Baroque church. The saint's original stone sarcophagus lies empty in the lower choir.
Worth noting are the sizable cloisters, laid out in 1733 by Carlos Mardel. Besides a small military museum, the rest of the rooms are off limits to the general public.
Address: Igreja da Rainha Santa Isabel-Alto de Santa Clara, Coimbra
Part of the original gateway to the old city, the Almedina Arch is a relic of Coimbra's Moorish town walls (in Arabic medina means town). The oldest part of the structure dates from around the 9th century and originally consisted of a pair of turrets linked by an arch. It was greatly altered and restored in the 12th century to include the Torre de Anto, built above the arch replete with Renaissance windows.
Today, the tower houses the Centre of the Walled City interpretation center, which recounts the history of the defensive walls that once surrounded Coimbra. An annex provides space for temporary exhibitions and talks on related themes.
9 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Puerta de Barbican
Part of the original gateway to the old city, the Almedina Arch is a relic of Coimbra's Moorish town walls (in Arabic medina means town). The oldest part of the structure dates from around the 9th century and originally consisted of a pair of turrets linked by an arch. It was greatly altered and restored in the 12th century to include the Torre de Anto, built above the arch replete with Renaissance windows.
Today, the tower houses the Centre of the Walled City interpretation center, which recounts the history of the defensive walls that once surrounded Coimbra. An annex provides space for temporary exhibitions and talks on related themes.
The city's botanical gardens are the most expansive in Portugal. Integrated into the University of Coimbra's faculty of natural history, they were created by the Marquês de Pombal during the reform of the university in 1773. Landscaped on valley terraces near the river, the entrance to the verdant 20-hectare estate lies under the shadow of the 16th-century aqueduct of São Sebastião.
The exuberant and exotic collection of flora numbers some 1,200 plants and trees from around the world. Several greenhouses, one dating from 1856, are used for cultivating subtropical plant and flower species. The gardens feature several ponds and a central fountain and, hidden among dense vegetation, the tiny 19th-century Capela de São Bento.
96 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Botanical Garden of Curitiba
350 R. Engo. Ostoja RoguskiThe city's botanical gardens are the most expansive in Portugal. Integrated into the University of Coimbra's faculty of natural history, they were created by the Marquês de Pombal during the reform of the university in 1773. Landscaped on valley terraces near the river, the entrance to the verdant 20-hectare estate lies under the shadow of the 16th-century aqueduct of São Sebastião.
The exuberant and exotic collection of flora numbers some 1,200 plants and trees from around the world. Several greenhouses, one dating from 1856, are used for cultivating subtropical plant and flower species. The gardens feature several ponds and a central fountain and, hidden among dense vegetation, the tiny 19th-century Capela de São Bento.
Grown-ups are welcome at this imaginative theme park, the name of which translates as "the little ones of Portugal." That's because everything here is a world in miniature, a thoroughly amusing exhibition of scaled-down versions of Portugal's most cherished national monuments, finest buildings, and traditional villages.
Coimbra is represented by its old university. There are also buildings from former colonies (the park was established in 1940).
A learning-through-play park basically intended for children, adults will also have fun exploring this Lilliputian landscape. Within the grounds are three museums specializing in furniture, traditional costume, and naval artifacts.
61 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Portugal dos Pequenitos
Largo Rossio de Santa ClaraGrown-ups are welcome at this imaginative theme park, the name of which translates as "the little ones of Portugal." That's because everything here is a world in miniature, a thoroughly amusing exhibition of scaled-down versions of Portugal's most cherished national monuments, finest buildings, and traditional villages.
Coimbra is represented by its old university. There are also buildings from former colonies (the park was established in 1940).
A learning-through-play park basically intended for children, adults will also have fun exploring this Lilliputian landscape. Within the grounds are three museums specializing in furniture, traditional costume, and naval artifacts.
Portugal's own tragic version of Romeo and Juliet was played out in the Quinta das Lágrimas gardens (in Portuguese lágrimas means tears) where lady-in-waiting Inês de Castro, the mistress of King Pedro I, was murdered in 1355 on the orders of Afonso IV. The deed was said to have taken place in the gardens of a villa near a fountain – the Fonte dos Amores.
The villa is now an upscale hotel, but the grounds, planted with ancient trees and landscaped with ponds and watercourses, are open to the public.
Address: Hotel Quinta das Lágrimas, Rua António Augusto Gonçalves, Coimbra
21 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Jardines de Quinta das Lágrimas
1 R. José Vilarinho RaposoPortugal's own tragic version of Romeo and Juliet was played out in the Quinta das Lágrimas gardens (in Portuguese lágrimas means tears) where lady-in-waiting Inês de Castro, the mistress of King Pedro I, was murdered in 1355 on the orders of Afonso IV. The deed was said to have taken place in the gardens of a villa near a fountain – the Fonte dos Amores.
The villa is now an upscale hotel, but the grounds, planted with ancient trees and landscaped with ponds and watercourses, are open to the public.
Address: Hotel Quinta das Lágrimas, Rua António Augusto Gonçalves, Coimbra
Zé Manel dos Ossos
10 Beco do FornoLovely authantic portuguese food
Food scene
Coimbra's busy main square is the city's commercial hub. Lined with shops, boutiques, cafés, and restaurants, it's also a popular tourist attraction in its own right.
In one corner stands the church of Sao Tiago. Consecrated in the 12th century, its façade has been heavily restored, but inside, an altarpiece dripping with dazzling gilded wood greets admiring sightseers. The outside of the building is particularly alluring at night when it's illuminated.
Just off nearby Rua Ferreira Borges are the aforementioned Arco de Alemedina and Torre de Anto.
Praça do Comércio
Praça do ComércioCoimbra's busy main square is the city's commercial hub. Lined with shops, boutiques, cafés, and restaurants, it's also a popular tourist attraction in its own right.
In one corner stands the church of Sao Tiago. Consecrated in the 12th century, its façade has been heavily restored, but inside, an altarpiece dripping with dazzling gilded wood greets admiring sightseers. The outside of the building is particularly alluring at night when it's illuminated.
Just off nearby Rua Ferreira Borges are the aforementioned Arco de Alemedina and Torre de Anto.
Papa Restaurante
37 Rua Alexandre HerculanoMurphy's Irish Pub
1 R. Almeida GarrettFood is very nice. Menu is great for a brunch with a lot of different flavours (+Vegetarian/vegan included).
Salatina
189 Rua do BrasilFood is very nice. Menu is great for a brunch with a lot of different flavours (+Vegetarian/vegan included).
Healthy, tasteful and vegan & vegetarian restaurant! Nice sevice as well.
26 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Restaurante GreenSide
31 R. ParreirasHealthy, tasteful and vegan & vegetarian restaurant! Nice sevice as well.
Cozinha Consciente
nº 9 Rua OlivençaNice vegan restaurant
Sete Restaurante
nº 10 R. Martins de CarvalhoExquisite food is the least to say!!
Very popular place known for great Portuguese food
6 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Refeitro da Baixa
Nºs Terreiro ErvaVery popular place known for great Portuguese food
Excellent Portuguese food, pretty unknown restaurant to tourists, located on the first floor, accessible through a small entrance that can be overlooked. The style of the interior is dated, but locals love the place for its food.
Between Rua Sofia and Praça Princesa Cindazunda (the “Lady with the big skirt and hands” statue) roundabout.
9 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Restaurante Nacional
12 R. Mário PaisExcellent Portuguese food, pretty unknown restaurant to tourists, located on the first floor, accessible through a small entrance that can be overlooked. The style of the interior is dated, but locals love the place for its food.
Between Rua Sofia and Praça Princesa Cindazunda (the “Lady with the big skirt and hands” statue) roundabout.
(next to Convento São Francisco, across the bridge from Largo da Portagem).
Mo-Su lunch, dinner
Highly recommended for its food, wines and view (terrace seating).
Perfect for a romantic evening with beautiful view of the nightly old town across the river
When making reservation, mention that you want to book (upstairs) in the restaurant, downstair is their burger place (no terrace).
Hamburgueria Maneirista
4 Rua Carlos Alberto Pinto de Abreu(next to Convento São Francisco, across the bridge from Largo da Portagem).
Mo-Su lunch, dinner
Highly recommended for its food, wines and view (terrace seating).
Perfect for a romantic evening with beautiful view of the nightly old town across the river
When making reservation, mention that you want to book (upstairs) in the restaurant, downstair is their burger place (no terrace).
Mo-Sa lunch, dinner
Portugal’s answer to Spanish tapas.
Probably the best petisqueira place in town.
Popular with locals.
Petisqueira Navegadores
426 Rua do BrasilMo-Sa lunch, dinner
Portugal’s answer to Spanish tapas.
Probably the best petisqueira place in town.
Popular with locals.
Coimbra’s very own mirco-brewery and one of the first in Portugal.
(if you have one of their growlers, take away refills from 11-12 are about ½ price)
Excellent beers (that make you want to forget Sagres) some available all-year, some seasonal, and good, reasonably priced food. Outdoor seating available too.
Comes as a surprise to many that - besides wine - Portugal has also a long beer tradition.
Popular with locals.
Typically, no reservations needed.
33 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Praxis
Coimbra’s very own mirco-brewery and one of the first in Portugal.
(if you have one of their growlers, take away refills from 11-12 are about ½ price)
Excellent beers (that make you want to forget Sagres) some available all-year, some seasonal, and good, reasonably priced food. Outdoor seating available too.
Comes as a surprise to many that - besides wine - Portugal has also a long beer tradition.
Popular with locals.
Typically, no reservations needed.